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General Discussion / Welcome one and all to Home Town Vintage forum
« Last post by hvcompton@gmail.com on August 27, 2013, 10:26:14 AM »
Welcome one and all to Home Town Vintage forum. We created this site to allow everyone to talk about and discuss the items they have a passion for. We collect, buy and sell vintage items and we have new items coming in everyday.
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General Discussion / Anti Spammer policy
« Last post by hvcompton@gmail.com on August 27, 2013, 10:21:52 AM »
In some cases we allow other sellers of similar goods to post on our forum in the correct board. Posting links and ads out side of these specific boards or links not related to vintage and collectable items will be removed and most likely end in the account being banned.

Please no advertisements, Spam or website links on this Forum. Anyone spamming on this board will be banned.
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Pyrex / Brown Floral Pyrex Dish
« Last post by hvcompton@gmail.com on August 26, 2013, 11:07:44 PM »
Here is a brown floral Pyrex Dish we got over the weekend.

[attach=1]
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Pfaltzgraff began in 1811 under the name of Falsgraff by several family members that started separately in Germany, Baltimore and other parts of the east coast.   

In 1839 Johann George Pfaltzgraff saw a need for expansion and moved himself and his family to Freystown, Pennsylvania , just east of York.  Here in 1894 they opened their first Factory.

Johann and his wife had 10 Children.  The earliest known samples of Pfaltzgraff pottery are by one of his son, John B. Pfaltzgraff.

In 1872, the company started to import better clay from places like Ohio, in attempt to make better, stronger quality pieces.  This is when they started favoring Salt-glazed stoneware over the earthenware that had been the foundation of the company.

The opening of the factory in 1894 was the first official title of "Pfaltzgraff Stoneware Company".  This creation was the combination of the genius and creativity of George and Henry Pfaltzgraff.  This first Factory burnt down in 1906.  A new Factory was Built in West York and still stands today.

1936 Pfaltzgraff opened it's first Retail outlet on Pottery Hill.

The Start of WWII Slowed the production of Pots to help support the war effort.  The company almost went of business, suffering finalcial losses consistently until 1946 when the company switched focus.

1950 The company introduced it's first Line of Household dinnerware, Gourmet Royale or "Brown Drip" Pattern, which would become the backbone of the company.



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Wilton Metalware / Care and Cleaning - How to protect your Pieces
« Last post by Hometownvintage on August 26, 2013, 02:43:55 PM »
Wilton Armetale Pieces are meant to be used on the table and in the oven but, need care in order to keep them in good condition.

1.  Wash your Wilton Items by hand with a mild soap.  A harsh soap and/or the dishwasher will not destroy the piece but, can change the color and even hurt the finished pewter look of your pieces.

2. If you have lost the finish of your pieces it can be corrected in a few cases.  You need to polish the items with a metal Polish and then thoroughly hand wash the pieces with soap & water.

3. Wilton items are not impenetrable from scratches and marks.  This can be desirable in some cases however you can polish some of these marks away.

4. If you want to use the item as a vase or to hold water, keep in mind that the water can damage the piece.  I suggest  coating the piece with a heavy shortening.  This will repel the water while preserving the metal.
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Wilton Metalware / Wilton Armetale - Not Pewter! It's Better.
« Last post by Hometownvintage on August 26, 2013, 02:30:00 PM »
Wilton Armetale is not Pewter.  It is a Metal Fusion of 10 different metals in a precise proportion to give each item the warmth and feel of Pewter but, with a much stronger and practical usability.

Wilton Armetale Items will not chip or break during normal use and does not have the horrible side effect of being poisonous, as some old pure pewter items can be.

Because of this trait of it being a mix of metals you can safely eat off of and drink from their products.
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General Information on spotting fakes and reproductions.

Rolex: Is one of the most common fakes on the market they are diligent on keeping fakes out of the market place but they are common no the less. For the mot part all cheap copies have one fatal flaw. Rolex movements are very costly to make and very accurate. The second hand is always a dead giveaway to a fake Rolex. True Rolex movements count half and quarter seconds. For this reason the second hand moved in very small half or quarter steps where most watches the second hand ticks for every second. In a Rolex there are several steps to the second hand each second and it makes the hand appear to roll smoothly around where normal watches tick in a jerking fashion. If you see a Rolex that has a ticking second hand its clearly a fake. Stay as far away as possible. Some people think its still a nice looking watch but in truth many fakes are so bad they will break, fall apart or simply stop working in no time at all. Most fakes don't last a week after purchase. Best to save your pennies for the real thing. A nice older Rolex from a reputable dealer can be affordable and last your lifetime and that of your children with proper care and repairs as needed.

Some Fakes are really good and some you cant even tell unless your a watch dealer. Its always best to only buy from a manufacturer rated dealer.

All Rolex have serial numbers that can be check for Fraud alerts. Many fakes use the same serial number and can be spotted easily with a little research.

Now that we have a specific idea of how fakes are made lets talk about how general items fakes can be spotted.

1. Is it Marked?
   A. Is That mark correct for the time the item was made. Printed marks, Stamps and stickers are commonly used these days but in the past they were less common. Many companies change there mark every ten years or so. It is also common practice to mark all items these days and in the past many manufactures did not mark there item at all. A marked on an item when you know they were not marked from the factory originally. Generally denotes a reproduction but can also be done as a way to make a fake look real.
   B. Is that mark look that same as others you have seen in the past. Its hard to add a mark and then add 100 years of wear to it. Often clean marks can be made from reproduction process usually legit companies making reproduction items will mark them with newer stamps or modern marking techniques. This is a normal way of marking there item as a reproduction. The other end is where the mark is very light or not as crisp as normally found on legit piece. This is commonly caused be recasting or simply casting the same item millions of times. Also many pottery companies put there mark under the glaze if the mark is above the glaze on an item that is normally marked under and fired its most likely a fake or modern legit firing.

2. Is it not marked?
   A. Many companies do not mark there items. Sometimes marked items appear from time to time that almost always turn out to be copies of the original.
   B. I deal in items made by companies that used stickers during the 60's, 70's and 80's. Since many are kitchen items its common for the stickers to come off. Seeing items marked with different stickers that do not look original to the item or show the same amount of wear. Commonly these stickers come on the markets and unrepeatable dealers always seem to come across them. So they run around putting stickers from a good manufacturer or a junk item that cost 1/4 the price.

3. Does it look legit?
   A. Lots of items can be cast again or have molds made from originals that can create very good looking copies. Cast iron pieces are commonly recast so much that it is unlikely you have seen an original cast iron bank from the 1900. Many were made over again in the 20, 40, 50, 60 all the way through today. They flood the market with poorly cast repos that look to be old but in fact the really nice ones are usually real the old and more poorly they fit the newer they usually are.
   B. These are products that are close but something is not right ears or nose if bigger or pants the wrong color. This is common with character pieces where they are popular and knockoffs are cheaply made from pictures or from finished product.

4. Do you trust the person selling it to you?
   A. This is a big one. As the price of a purchase goes up the diligence for finding a safe and secure dealer is very important. For a 10 dollar item sometimes taking a good look at it is all that is needed. But for something that cost 15 thousand dollars you had better make sure its legit and the person selling it is trustworthy.
   B. Is the person selling it recommended by the manufacturer. This is very important on the price. Easy way to say this is car from a car dealer with 25 miles on it is full price with a few dollars off. If you got the same car from a private seller with 25 miles on it you would want 5K or even 10K less than the original sticker price. The same is even more true with items that have no date of manufacturer or any way of showing how much it was used. Cars at least you know its got 25 miles its almost new. But that same car could have been driving many miles in a very short time. The same holds true for most things.
  C. When your decision of purchase rest in the hands of the person selling it to you. You have no choice but to trust them and your own research. In these instances you want a trusting and open relationship with your dealer. Without this in place your purchase will be much less secure.

If you wish you can always make a post to our forum and we can help you find out if its fake or reproduction.
Post a new topic here:  http://henrycompton.com/index.php?board=24

Thanks
Henry
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Got a Favorite that needs its own category. Let us know we will set on up for that manufacturer. Always willing to help. The goal of this site is to give ppl a place to talk about there favorite items and get more information.
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Got a Favorite that needs its own category. Let us know we will set on up for that manufacturer. Always willing to help. The goal of this site is to give ppl a place to talk about there favorite items and get more information.
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Site Links / Here is a list of our Site Links for Home Town Vintage
« Last post by hvcompton@gmail.com on August 26, 2013, 11:15:02 AM »
Here is a list of our Site Links for Home Town Vintage

Here is the store front link below
http://www.hometownvintage.com/

This is my blog where I keep a running list of items picked weekly
http://myblog.henrycompton.com/

This Forum
http://www.henrycompton.com/

My forum devoted to Chevy V8 Engines
http://www.sbcv8.com/


Thanks For Looking
Henry
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