Author Topic: General Information on spotting fakes and reproductions  (Read 5934 times)

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General Information on spotting fakes and reproductions
« on: August 26, 2013, 02:13:21 PM »
General Information on spotting fakes and reproductions.

Rolex: Is one of the most common fakes on the market they are diligent on keeping fakes out of the market place but they are common no the less. For the mot part all cheap copies have one fatal flaw. Rolex movements are very costly to make and very accurate. The second hand is always a dead giveaway to a fake Rolex. True Rolex movements count half and quarter seconds. For this reason the second hand moved in very small half or quarter steps where most watches the second hand ticks for every second. In a Rolex there are several steps to the second hand each second and it makes the hand appear to roll smoothly around where normal watches tick in a jerking fashion. If you see a Rolex that has a ticking second hand its clearly a fake. Stay as far away as possible. Some people think its still a nice looking watch but in truth many fakes are so bad they will break, fall apart or simply stop working in no time at all. Most fakes don't last a week after purchase. Best to save your pennies for the real thing. A nice older Rolex from a reputable dealer can be affordable and last your lifetime and that of your children with proper care and repairs as needed.

Some Fakes are really good and some you cant even tell unless your a watch dealer. Its always best to only buy from a manufacturer rated dealer.

All Rolex have serial numbers that can be check for Fraud alerts. Many fakes use the same serial number and can be spotted easily with a little research.

Now that we have a specific idea of how fakes are made lets talk about how general items fakes can be spotted.

1. Is it Marked?
   A. Is That mark correct for the time the item was made. Printed marks, Stamps and stickers are commonly used these days but in the past they were less common. Many companies change there mark every ten years or so. It is also common practice to mark all items these days and in the past many manufactures did not mark there item at all. A marked on an item when you know they were not marked from the factory originally. Generally denotes a reproduction but can also be done as a way to make a fake look real.
   B. Is that mark look that same as others you have seen in the past. Its hard to add a mark and then add 100 years of wear to it. Often clean marks can be made from reproduction process usually legit companies making reproduction items will mark them with newer stamps or modern marking techniques. This is a normal way of marking there item as a reproduction. The other end is where the mark is very light or not as crisp as normally found on legit piece. This is commonly caused be recasting or simply casting the same item millions of times. Also many pottery companies put there mark under the glaze if the mark is above the glaze on an item that is normally marked under and fired its most likely a fake or modern legit firing.

2. Is it not marked?
   A. Many companies do not mark there items. Sometimes marked items appear from time to time that almost always turn out to be copies of the original.
   B. I deal in items made by companies that used stickers during the 60's, 70's and 80's. Since many are kitchen items its common for the stickers to come off. Seeing items marked with different stickers that do not look original to the item or show the same amount of wear. Commonly these stickers come on the markets and unrepeatable dealers always seem to come across them. So they run around putting stickers from a good manufacturer or a junk item that cost 1/4 the price.

3. Does it look legit?
   A. Lots of items can be cast again or have molds made from originals that can create very good looking copies. Cast iron pieces are commonly recast so much that it is unlikely you have seen an original cast iron bank from the 1900. Many were made over again in the 20, 40, 50, 60 all the way through today. They flood the market with poorly cast repos that look to be old but in fact the really nice ones are usually real the old and more poorly they fit the newer they usually are.
   B. These are products that are close but something is not right ears or nose if bigger or pants the wrong color. This is common with character pieces where they are popular and knockoffs are cheaply made from pictures or from finished product.

4. Do you trust the person selling it to you?
   A. This is a big one. As the price of a purchase goes up the diligence for finding a safe and secure dealer is very important. For a 10 dollar item sometimes taking a good look at it is all that is needed. But for something that cost 15 thousand dollars you had better make sure its legit and the person selling it is trustworthy.
   B. Is the person selling it recommended by the manufacturer. This is very important on the price. Easy way to say this is car from a car dealer with 25 miles on it is full price with a few dollars off. If you got the same car from a private seller with 25 miles on it you would want 5K or even 10K less than the original sticker price. The same is even more true with items that have no date of manufacturer or any way of showing how much it was used. Cars at least you know its got 25 miles its almost new. But that same car could have been driving many miles in a very short time. The same holds true for most things.
  C. When your decision of purchase rest in the hands of the person selling it to you. You have no choice but to trust them and your own research. In these instances you want a trusting and open relationship with your dealer. Without this in place your purchase will be much less secure.

If you wish you can always make a post to our forum and we can help you find out if its fake or reproduction.
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« Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 02:32:37 PM by »

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